Glam Slam: Getting Flapper Fabulous

“The Artist” won best picture at the Oscars on Sunday, which is perfect timing and inspiration for the speakeasy-themed gala I am going to this weekend for my daughter’s school. I already told you about the search for my dress. I also have the shoes, the long beads and the long cigarette holder. Now, I need help with the makeup!

And to get it right, I went to Gabriela Hernandez, creator of Bésame Cosmetics, cosmetic historian and author of “Classic Beauty, The History of Makeup.”

“The 1920s marked a resurgence in the use of makeup by women,” Gabriela says. “It was acceptable and chic to wear makeup, especially to apply the new twist-up models of lipsticks in public.”

“Lipstick use was on the rise, with dark red shades being the norm for the flapper. Their favorite accessory was the tango case, a compact that contained powder, rouge, lipstick and a card or cigarette compartment used as a purse for easy touch-ups in the clubs. All fashionable women wore makeup, applied by layering vanishing creams with powder and strong rouge.”

Here, Gabriela shares how to create your own flapper-chic look.

EYEBROWS
The eyebrows were worn thin and with a downward slope. You can simulate this look without tweezing by masking your natural brow and drawing in a new one with a dark grease pencil. Do this with brow wax and spirit gum sealer. Apply a thick layer of wax to your brow to conceal all the hair; this will create a mound of wax that you can flatten with your fingers. Brush a coat of sealer before applying your foundation. Powder well and draw the new brow with a very soft pencil.

EYES
The eyelashes were thickened with black wax, and the shadows used were darker colors like Bésame’s Black Pearl. Smudge the black shadow all around the eye, but stay away from the brow. Apply several coats of Besame’s 1930s Mascara for the thick lashes in this look.

LIPS
Deep red colors like Bésame Red, Cherry Red, and Merlot were worn. The bee-stung shape can be achieved by putting foundation on the lips and drawing a heart-shaped larger top lip, making sure to stay away from the natural edge of the lip. Keep the shape round and full. Use the tip of the Enchanting Lipstick to draw the outline of the lips and then fill with the blunt side.

NAILS
Nail polishes were introduced into the market, with the first colors available being sheer red and a French manicure, called the moon manicure, where the tips and base of the nail are left bare.

As for recreating the ‘20s looks for my gala, Gabriela says, “You can make the look more modern by leaving the eyebrows a more natural thickness, but using a pencil only to round the tops and lengthen them toward the temples. Also, you can make the lip shade a bit more natural by rounding the tops of the Cupid’s bow, so the tips are not as sharp. Matching your powder to your skin color will also make the look more contemporary since, in the past, the norm was using very light color powders.”

Wish me luck!

–Ryan Patterson