L.A. Fashion Week Gets Dark

Human bones on the catwalk. Models in dagger-emblazoned silk dresses strutting while talking on cell phones. Bauhaus blaring overhead.

Designer Tara Subkoff’s Imitation of Christ brought some gothic glitz to L.A. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Monday, with Ed Hardy’s tattoo-based casual wear adding to the cool-teen party.

Still considered the less mature kid sister of its East Coast counterpart, L.A. Fashion Week this season features 24 shows — trimmed down from last season’s 32 — showcasing designers’ fall 2007 collections.

For Subkoff, who normally shows her line in New York, being anti-establishment is nothing new.

Imitation of Christ crashed the fashion world in 2000 by showing its collection of retooled vintage clothes at a New York City funeral parlor. The celebrity-hip line went on to present eclectic denim and jersey collections, all couched within conceptual, political productions (one show featured half-naked models vacuuming, and another, a backdrop of Iraq war photos). Guests at Subkoff’s spring 2007 show were treated to buckets of Budweiser.

Photo: A look from L.A. Fashion Week (AP)

On Monday, Subkoff’s return to L.A. (her fourth time showing in the city) marked a cheery departure from over-the-top artiness and what she called “over-saturated” New York. The emphasis was the clothes: beaded white, black and gold dresses, deconstructed blouses and black leather.

“It’s a little bit more mature, a little bit more serious,” Subkoff said backstage before the show. “I really wanted to do something kind of inspired by the style I had as a teen, that goth club kid in Connecticut sort of innocence but a little bit rebellious feeling.”

Subkoff also cited her ballet background, defining the collection as “feminine” but with “a hard edge.”

Still, it wouldn’t be Imitation of Christ without a dash of theater, and somber models painted pale white with burgundy or jet black lips stomped around skulls and bits of skeleton scattered down the runway.

Wearing ill-fitting black heels, they also attempted to “talk” on their cell phones while walking.

Soaking everything up in Smashbox Studios’ front row was a bevy of actress fans, including Elisha Cuthbert, Ali Larter, Ginnifer Goodwin and Ione Skye next to musician Ben Lee.

Notable offerings included a hooded black cape with high-waisted velvet pants, and a fitted black sweater framed by a heavy metallic collar perfectly paired with high-waisted skinny rocker jeans.

Mini dresses came in spangly white and gold, with one gorgeous gold-beaded cocktail number accented by a huge black cross hanging down the model’s back. A long black sequined gown seemed custom fit for awards season.

Slouchy black pants and messy, long-sleeved white blouses looked more like daddy’s old threads than high fashion. One snug, sparkling white gown dipped so low that the model showed more than really necessary.

“A lot of see-through, but I could make it work with other pieces,” said Cuthbert of Subkoff. “If I mix it with the right pair of jeans and undershirt, I would be thrilled to wear her stuff.”

Earlier in the day, designer Christian Audigier showcased his Ed Hardy line, with the circus as inspiration for his “Love Kills Slowly” collection.

The result was a candy-colored assortment of sweat pants, T-shirts, hoodies and leather jackets decked out with classic tattoo designs based on the flash artwork of veteran tattoo artist Don Ed Hardy.

“This is for modern teenagers,” Audigier said in his thick French accent before the show. “It’s more a lifestyle than clothes: the colors, the tattoos, the street, the bling-bling. I love it.”

The circus began with sports announcer Michael Buffer uttering his trademarked phrase: “Let’s get ready to rumble!” He announced that porn star Jenna Jamison and former model Janice Dickinson would be judging the show. Both had seats in the front row.

Long cardigan sweaters for women were worn belted as mini dresses over checkered leggings, and a red men’s sweater included fiery tattoo sleeves. Hip-length hoodies embroidered with daggers and eagles were shown alongside T-shirts emblazoned with rhinestone skull-and-crossbones designs.

Audigier also debuted a new line of intimate apparel, including a gray panty-and-bra set trimmed with orange ruffles, along with his Ed Hardy collection of boots and sneakers.

Fashion Week continues with shows including Audigier’s new Christian Audigier line and designer Kevan Hall.

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